A genuine sheepskin coat or B-3 bomber jacket is the closest thing to a lifetime garment in most riders’ closets. Properly cared for, the same shearling jacket can stay in active rotation for forty or fifty years — we’ve seen plenty of them. Treat one wrong, though, and you can dry it out, mat the wool, or stain the leatherized shell in a single bad season.
Sheepskin care is its own skill. The general rules of leather jacket maintenance apply, but shearling has unique needs because you’re really caring for two materials at once: the leatherized outer shell and the dense wool pile inside. Here’s the full routine.
Storing a Sheepskin Coat or B-3 Jacket
Storage is half the battle with shearling. The wrong setup will distort the shoulders, fade the leather, or trap moisture in the wool.
- Use a wide curved hanger with broad ends — thin wire hangers will distort the shoulders within months
- Hang in a breathable cotton or woven garment bag, never plastic, PEVA, or vinyl — those trap moisture and can cause discoloration
- Keep away from direct sunlight to avoid leather fade and uneven aging
- Maintain a moderate environment — not overly humid, not bone dry, no extreme temperature swings
- Don’t compress the jacket against other heavy garments — the wool needs space to keep its loft
For long-term seasonal storage, condition the leather first, then bag and hang. Check on the jacket every few weeks — a quick inspection beats discovering mildew six months in.
Drying a Wet Sheepskin Jacket
Sheepskin can handle light rain or snow, but you don’t want to fully saturate it. If your jacket gets wet:
- Shake off excess water or snow
- Blot the leatherized shell with a clean, dry towel — do not rub — rubbing forces moisture into the leather and can damage the shell
- Hang on a wide curved hanger and let it air dry at room temperature
- Keep it well away from radiators, heat vents, hair dryers, car defrosters, and direct sunlight
- Once fully dry, brush the exterior with a suede brush (unless it has a napa finish — in which case rub gently with a soft towel)
- Fluff the inside wool lightly with a wire brush to restore loft
Direct heat is the single most common way sheepskin jackets get ruined. The leather pulls oils out faster than the natural fibers can replace them, which causes long-term cracking. Always air dry.
Cleaning a Sheepskin Coat
Small spills and surface grime
Wipe with a damp cloth. Use tweezers to gently pluck embedded debris or dirt out of the suede. A scouring pad or suede block can rejuvenate the nap and lift surface dirt at the same time. Always test on an inconspicuous area first.
Liquid spots (grease, drinks, oils)
Sprinkle a thick layer of corn starch directly onto the spot and let it sit for a day or two — longer for bigger stains. Corn starch absorbs the oil out of the leather. When you’re ready, dust the corn starch off and brush the nap with a suede brush. For napa-finish leather, skip the suede brush and rub lightly with a soft towel after dusting.
Heavy soiling or set-in stains
Don’t dry clean. Standard dry cleaning solvents strip the natural oils from sheepskin and can ruin the wool. For deep cleaning, take the coat to a leather and sheepskin specialty cleaner — they’re equipped to handle it; a regular cleaner is not.
Conditioning Sheepskin Leather
The leatherized shell of a sheepskin jacket benefits from occasional conditioning — not as often as a full-leather jacket, but enough to keep the shell supple. Once or twice a year is plenty for most owners. Use a quality leather conditioner. Avoid anything containing petroleum, mineral oils, or silicones — those dry the leather over time and can build up on the shell.
If your sheepskin shell is suede or nubuck (rougher textured), brush it gently with a terry cloth towel or suede brush rather than conditioning it like smooth leather.
General Sheepskin Care Quick Tips
- For everyday dust on the leather shell, use a soft, clean cloth or a slightly damp towel
- For suede surfaces, use a suede brush gently
- Always test cleaning or conditioning products on an inconspicuous spot first
- Sponge off winter road salt with a damp towel and air dry
- Don’t use household cleaners, alcohol, or bleach — ever
- For the wool lining, light brushing with a wire brush keeps it lofted
Frequently Asked Questions
Can sheepskin jackets get wet?
Yes — light rain or snow won’t damage them. What you want to avoid is full saturation. If a sheepskin jacket gets wet, shake off the excess, blot dry, and air dry on a wide hanger away from heat.
How do you clean a sheepskin coat at home?
Wipe small spills with a damp cloth. Use corn starch on liquid spots (let it sit for a day, then brush off). Use a suede brush on the nap. For deeper cleaning or set-in stains, take the coat to a leather/sheepskin specialty cleaner.
Can I dry clean a sheepskin jacket?
No. Standard dry cleaning solvents strip natural oils from sheepskin and can damage the wool. For deep cleaning, only use a specialty leather and sheepskin cleaner.
How often should I condition a sheepskin coat?
Once or twice a year is plenty for the leatherized shell. Sheepskin doesn’t need conditioning as frequently as full-leather jackets because the natural lanolin in the wool helps protect the leather from the inside.
How do I store a sheepskin coat in summer?
Condition the leather first. Hang on a wide curved hanger inside a breathable cotton or woven garment bag. Store in a moderate-temperature, ventilated closet away from direct sunlight. Avoid plastic bags and humid storage.
Will a sheepskin B-3 bomber jacket last decades?
With proper care, yes. Quality American-made sheepskin B-3 bombers from heritage makers like Cockpit USA routinely stay in active rotation for 30 to 50 years. The construction rewards consistent care.
Shop Heritage Sheepskin
Browse our full collection of sheepskin bomber jackets and men’s leather military jackets. For the deep dive on choosing between B-3 models, see our Cockpit vs. Schott NYC sheepskin B-3 comparison.
Article originally published May 2024. Updated May 2026 with expanded conditioning detail and FAQ.